The History of Rolex:
‍A Legacy Of Precision
& Prestige

The Early Years (1905-1919): The Birth of a Legend

The story of Rolex begins in 1905 with a young entrepreneur named Hans Wilsdorf. At just 24 years old, Wilsdorf had a vision to create wristwatches that were not only elegant and reliable but also precise. At a time when pocket watches were the norm, this was a bold ambition. Wilsdorf, together with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, founded Wilsdorf & Davis in London, primarily importing Hermann Aegler’s Swiss movements to fit into quality cases.

Wilsdorf’s vision for Rolex went beyond just making wrist watches popular. He was particularly focused on precision and knew that if wristwatches were to be taken seriously, they had to be as accurate as the marine chronometers used in navigation. Wilsdorf was ahead of his time in understanding the potential of wristwatches at a time when they were still seen as a novelty, mostly for women, with men preferring pocket watches.

The Rolex Name Is Born

In 1908, Wilsdorf registered the trademark "Rolex." The name was short, easily pronounceable in any language, and it fit neatly on the dial of a watch. Wilsdorf had a keen sense of marketing, and he believed that a strong brand identity was crucial for success. He understood the importance of associating Rolex with high-profile events and achievements, ensuring that the brand’s reputation for precision was widely publicised.

Early Accomplishments in Precision

In 1910, Rolex achieved a significant milestone when one of its watches received the first-ever Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. This achievement was groundbreaking as it marked the beginning of Rolex’s reputation for accuracy and reliability; an essential attribute for a timepiece.

By 1914, Rolex was further recognised when the Kew Observatory in England awarded a Rolex wristwatch a Class A precision certificate, a distinction previously reserved only for marine chronometers. This was a pivotal moment in establishing Rolex as a leader in precision timekeeping.

During these early years, Rolex's movements were not manufactured in-house but sourced from some of the best Swiss movement makers, particularly Aegler in Bienne. These early movements were key to Rolex’s initial success, providing the reliability needed to support Wilsdorf’s precision claims.

The 1920s to 1940s: Innovation and Growth

The 1920s marked the beginning of a new era for Rolex, as the company relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1919. This move allowed Rolex to be closer to the heart of the watchmaking industry. The 1920s also saw one of Rolex’s most significant innovations: the Oyster case.

Rolex Oyster: A New Era in Wrist Watch Durability

In 1926, Rolex introduced the world’s first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch, named the Rolex Oyster. The Oyster case was an engineering marvel, featuring a screw-down bezel, case back, and winding crown, which ensured the movement was completely sealed from the elements. This was a radical departure from the snap-on or hinged cases of the time, which offered little protection against dust and moisture. Rolex tested the Oyster case rigorously, including submerging it in water and subjecting it to high pressure.

The new innovation was demonstrated in a highly publicised event in 1927 when Mercedes Gleitze, a young English swimmer, wore a Rolex Oyster as she attempted to swim across the English Channel. Despite the challenging conditions, the watch emerged from the water in perfect working order, a testament to its durability and a brilliant marketing coup for Rolex. Rolex capitalised on this event with newspaper ads declaring, "Rolex triumphs in the English Channel."

The Perpetual Movement: Revolutionary Self-Winding Technology

In 1931, Rolex introduced the Perpetual movement, a self-winding mechanism that revolutionised the watch industry. This technology eliminated the need for manual winding by using a rotor to harness the energy of the wearer’s movements. The Perpetual movement was a major advancement and became a cornerstone of Rolex’s watchmaking philosophy.

While self-winding watches had already existed for some decades before the introduction of the Rolex Perpetual movement, Rolex’s innovation significantly improved the reliability and efficiency of automatic winding. Earlier self-winding mechanisms often used bumpers or rudimentary rotors that only rotated a portion of the way around the movement, which could lead to inconsistent winding and less power reserve.

Rolex's Perpetual movement introduced a full 360-degree rotor, allowing for continuous and more efficient winding as it utilised the full range of wrist motion. This advancement ensured that the mainspring was consistently and optimally wound, providing a more reliable power reserve and making the watch less dependent on the wearer’s activity level. 

Crucially, Rolex’s design minimised wear and tear on the movement, which was a common issue with earlier self-winding systems. The introduction of this robust and efficient rotor system not only set a new standard for automatic watches but also solidified Rolex’s reputation for innovation and technical excellence in watchmaking.

With Rolex’s already proven accuracy, this movement technology coupled with the brand’s Oyster cases led to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual becoming the foundation on which almost all future model ranges would be built, setting the standard for durability, reliability and precision. 

The success of the Perpetual movement led to widespread adoption of automatic winding mechanisms across the industry, with many other watchmakers eventually incorporating similar technology into their own designs. This innovation allowed for the creation of wristwatches that were more convenient, reliable, and maintenance-free, contributing to the broader acceptance and popularity of wristwatches in the 20th century.

The Datejust: Innovation in Date Complications

The 1940s were a period of steady growth for Rolex, with the company continuing to innovate and solidify its reputation. In 1945, Rolex introduced the Datejust, the first wristwatch with an automatically changing date function. This was not the first watch to feature a date complication, as manually set or pointer date complications were already available. However, the Rolex Datejust was the first wristwatch featuring a date that changed automatically at midnight, ensuring it was always correct.

The Datejust was also the first Rolex model to feature the now-famous Jubilee bracelet, known for its comfort and elegance. The Cyclops lens, a small magnifying lens positioned over the date window on the crystal, was introduced in 1953, making the date easier to read and becoming a distinctive feature of many Rolex models.

Rolex During WWII

During World War II, Rolex’s reputation for precision and reliability was further cemented. The company produced watches for Allied prisoners of war, which were offered on an honour system; watches would be sent to POWs who requested them, with payment deferred until after the war. 

These Rolex watches, particularly the Oyster, were prized possessions and often served as a form of currency among prisoners. Additionally, British fighter pilots often exchanged their standard issue watches for Rolexes, considering them far superior in terms of durability and accuracy.

The 1980s to 2000s: Reinvention and Endurance

The 1980s brought significant challenges to the Swiss watch industry, as the Quartz Crisis—a period of disruption caused by the rise of inexpensive, highly accurate quartz watches from Japan—forced many traditional watchmakers to either adapt or close their doors. Rolex, however, managed to navigate this turbulent period by doubling down on its commitment to mechanical watchmaking and reinforcing its image as a luxury icon.

The Quartz Crisis and Rolex's Response

During the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, many Swiss watchmakers faced the challenge of adapting to the rise of inexpensive, highly accurate quartz watches. While Rolex remained committed to mechanical movements, it also explored quartz technology through the introduction of the Oysterquartz line in 1977. 

These models, equipped with in-house quartz movements, featured the same iconic design elements as their mechanical counterparts. Despite their precision, the Oysterquartz models were produced in relatively small numbers and were eventually discontinued, making them unique and collectible. 

Rolex’s strategy during the Quartz Crisis was characterised by a refusal to abandon its roots in mechanical watchmaking. By perfecting its mechanical movements and enhancing their accuracy, reliability, and durability, Rolex solidified its position as a leader in the luxury watch market, appealing to those who valued craftsmanship over the novelty of quartz technology.

The Yacht-Master: Elegance and Durability on the Water

Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master in 1992, a luxurious take on the Submariner that was intended for use when sailing, rather than for professional diving. It features a rotatable bezel which gives it a similar look to the Submariner, however the Yacht-Master’s bezel is bi-directional. 

Initially launched in precious metals, making it a favourite among sailing enthusiasts and those looking for a more elegant sports watch, the model has been used to introduce a number of new Rolex technologies over the years, including being the first Rolex to sport an Oysterflex bracelet, and the first to offer RLX Titanium in a practical case size (after the 50mm Deepsea Challenge pioneered the use of the material in 2022).

In 2007, Rolex expanded the range with the Yacht-Master II, a highly specialised watch designed for competitive sailing. The most distinctive feature of the Yacht-Master II is its programmable countdown timer, which can be synchronised with race start sequences, a crucial function for regattas. This innovative timer is controlled via the Ring Command bezel, which allows for seamless interaction between the bezel and the movement.

The Yacht-Master II’s bold design, large case size, and specialised functionality set it apart from its predecessor, making it a favourite among those who require precision timing in high-stakes sailing competitions.

Brand Building Through Sponsorship & Promotion

Rolex also began to engage in strategic sponsorships and partnerships during this era. The brand became associated with prestigious events such as the Wimbledon tennis tournament, the 24 Hours of Le Mans, and the Monte-Carlo Masters. 

Rolex’s involvement in tennis can be traced back to 1978 when it became the official timekeeper of Wimbledon. Over the next two decades, this partnership expanded to include sponsorships of all four Grand Slam tournaments and numerous other tennis events, solidifying Rolex’s presence in the world of sports and helping to align the brand with precision and excellence.

Advancements in Materials

Material innovations also played a significant role during this period. Rolex introduced 904L stainless steel, which is more resistant to corrosion than the 316L steel used by most other watchmakers. Rolex also developed its own foundry to produce proprietary gold alloys, including Everose gold, which resists fading and maintains its lustre over time.

Development of the Parachrom Hairspring

In the year 2000, Rolex introduced the Parachrom hairspring within its 4130 calibre, its first in-house chronograph movement for the Daytona. A major advancement in watchmaking technology. The Parachrom hairspring is made from a proprietary alloy of niobium and zirconium, making it highly resistant to magnetic fields and temperature variations.

This innovation significantly improved the accuracy and reliability of Rolex movements, as the hairspring is a critical component in maintaining precise timekeeping. Being ten times more shock-resistant than traditional hairsprings, the introduction of Parachrom also further enhanced the durability of Rolex watches. This development underscored Rolex’s commitment to continuous improvement and technological innovation.

The 2010s to Present: Modern Rolex

In recent years, Rolex has continued to innovate while honouring its rich heritage and staying true to the core principles that have defined the brand for decades. The 2010s marked a period where the brand subtly evolved its classic models, maintaining their iconic designs while incorporating modern technology and materials. 

Rolex focused on refining and enhancing its iconic models, ensuring they met the demands of contemporary wearers while preserving the timeless aesthetics that made them famous. The brand’s commitment to excellence was further highlighted by its use of cutting-edge materials, such as Cerachrom (a highly durable ceramic) for bezels, and proprietary alloys like Everose gold.

Use of Cerachrom and Other Proprietary Materials

Rolex has long been at the forefront of materials science, developing proprietary alloys and materials to enhance the performance and aesthetics of its watches. One of the most significant advancements has been the introduction of Cerachrom, a highly durable ceramic material used for bezels.

Cerachrom is virtually scratchproof and maintains its vibrant colour even after prolonged exposure to UV light, ensuring that Rolex bezels remain as pristine as the day they were made. Rolex also developed its own gold alloys, such as Everose gold, which resists fading and tarnishing over time. These materials not only improve the durability and longevity of Rolex watches but also contribute to their distinctive, luxurious appearance.

The Sky-Dweller: Rolex’s Most Complicated Watch

A notable introduction during this era was the Sky-Dweller, launched in 2012. The Sky-Dweller was a groundbreaking model, featuring a sophisticated annual calendar and dual time zone display, all housed within the iconic Rolex design. 

The watch was specifically designed for global travellers, combining practicality with Rolex’s hallmark elegance. The Sky-Dweller’s innovative Ring Command bezel, which allows the wearer to easily set the different functions of the watch, further demonstrated Rolex’s commitment to blending functionality with user-friendly design.

Demand & Investment Potential

In recent years, demand for Rolex models has surged, with the brand’s production capabilities unable to fully meet the appetite for certain references. This heightened demand has created scarcity for new examples within popular model ranges like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master II, which makes working with a trusted specialist such as The Swiss Watch Company the ideal way to obtain an in-demand model. 

This strong market demand has also made Rolex watches an attractive option for investment. Collectors and enthusiasts have increasingly viewed Rolex timepieces not only as luxury accessories but also as assets that can appreciate over time. The steady increase in value of many Rolex models has led to a perception of Rolex watches as relatively safe investments. 

Owners who have held onto their watches for several years often find that the value has significantly increased, allowing them to realise substantial gains if they choose to sell. This investment potential, combined with the brand’s enduring prestige and reliability, has made Rolex a top choice for those looking to add both timeless style and financial value to their collections.

Sustainability & Continuing Refinement

One of the most significant developments in recent years has been Rolex’s increasing focus on sustainability and corporate responsibility. The brand has made strides in reducing its environmental impact and has been involved in various philanthropic efforts through the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, which support innovative projects that improve human knowledge and well-being.

In the modern era, Rolex has continued to refine its movements. The introduction of the Caliber 3255 in 2015, which powers the Day-Date 40, showcased Rolex’s advancements in precision and power reserve. This movement offers a 70-hour power reserve, thanks to Rolex’s proprietary Chronergy escapement, which improves efficiency.

The Cultural Impact of Rolex

Rolex’s presence in popular culture is unparalleled. From James Bond’s Submariner to Paul Newman’s Daytona, Rolex watches have graced the wrists of some of the most famous and influential people in history. The brand’s watches have appeared in countless films, television shows, and books, often serving as a symbol of success, sophistication, or adventure.

While the Omega Seamaster has been James Bond’s watch of choice in recent films, it was Rolex that first adorned the wrist of 007. In Ian Fleming’s novels, Bond wore a Rolex, and this was carried over to the early films, where Sean Connery’s Bond famously wore a Submariner. This association with the suave and sophisticated Bond cemented Rolex’s image as the ultimate watch for the discerning gentleman.

Rolex watches are also a favourite among celebrities and athletes. The brand’s association with figures like Roger Federer and Martin Scorsese has further cemented its status as a symbol of achievement and style.

Rolex watches have made countless appearances in music and film, often symbolising success, power, and luxury. From the lyrics of hip-hop artists who reference Rolex as a status symbol to the characters in classic films who sport the brand, Rolex has become a cultural touchstone that transcends the world of horology.

Ambassadors & Testimonees

Rolex’s association with accomplished individuals has played a significant role in shaping the brand’s image. The Rolex Testimonees, as the brand’s ambassadors are known, include individuals across a range of fields including sport, exploration, conservation and the arts.

These individuals embody the excellence and pioneering spirit that Rolex represents. For instance, Sir Jackie Stewart, a three-time Formula One World Champion, has been a Rolex Testimonee since 1968, symbolising the brand’s long-standing connection to the world of motorsport. Through these partnerships, Rolex has reinforced its identity as a brand that celebrates achievement and pushes the boundaries of what is possible.

High Profile Auctions

Rolex watches have become a significant presence in the auction world, often fetching record prices that reflect their status as collectibles and symbols of prestige. One of the most famous examples is the Paul Newman Daytona, which sold for a staggering $17.8 million in 2017, setting a new world record for a wristwatch at auction.

Other notable Rolex watches, such as the “Bao Dai” Rolex, a reference 6062 owned by the last emperor of Vietnam, have also commanded millions of dollars at auction. These high-profile sales underscore the enduring appeal of Rolex watches and their status as both luxury items and valuable investments.

The Future of Rolex

Rolex’s journey from a small London-based company to a global symbol of luxury and precision is a testament to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf and the brand’s unwavering commitment to excellence. Over the course of more than a century, Rolex has set the standard for mechanical watchmaking and has become a cultural icon, representing success, adventure, and timeless elegance.

As Rolex looks to the future, the brand continues to balance its rich heritage with a commitment to innovation. While remaining true to its iconic designs, Rolex is likely to explore new materials, technologies, and features that will keep its watches at the forefront of horology. 

Advancements in movement technology, such as further enhancements to the Chronergy escapement, and the expansion of sustainable materials and processes, will ensure that Rolex remains an industry leader. As the watch industry evolves, Rolex’s ability to innovate while maintaining its timeless appeal will be key to its ongoing success - a legacy that shows no signs of slowing down.